Varosha Ghost Town: The Dos and Don’ts of a Visit

Varosha has a short list of rules, and they are enforced. Most people only read them on the board at the gate. We have split them in two: what to do on one side, what not to do on the other. A few grey-area questions sit at the end. Two minutes of reading, then go and enjoy the ride.

First, what this place is

Varosha (Kapalı Maraş, “closed Maraş”, in Turkish) was the holiday quarter of Famagusta (Gazimağusa) before 1974: hotels, flats and shops lined up along the sand. Once 1974 had passed, the Turkish army put a fence around it, and the streets have been empty ever since. A section has welcomed visitors since October 2020; the rest is still closed.

Its status is disputed; the UN calls for its return. We take no side here. People lived, worked and grew up in these streets. Keep that in mind and every rule below makes sense on its own.

Do

Read the board at the gate

Opening hours move with the season: an earlier close in winter, a later one in summer. The board at the gate has the real times. Heading over after lunch? Look first.

Hire some wheels

There is more open ground inside than you would guess from the wire. Bikes and e-scooters are for hire at the entrance, and for a group of friends that is the best way in. Prices change, so ask on the spot.

Keep to the marked routes

The routes are signed. Ride them, stop where you like, take your time. If a side street has no sign, it is not part of the visit.

Take photos from the route

Cameras are welcome. Empty hotel fronts, faded shop signs, gardens gone wild: you can shoot all of it from the route. Early morning and late afternoon bring the softest light.

Swim off the sand

The beach below the old hotels is yours to use. Towers behind you, the Mediterranean ahead. Bring swimwear and a towel. See whether a lifeguard is on duty; if not, stay close to the shore.

Choose your hour

There is almost no shade. In summer, avoid the middle of the day. Go early or late and carry plenty of water.

Keep it quiet

It is not a theme park. Talk low and move slowly. The silence is what most people remember anyway.

Don’t

Don’t step inside a building

No “just a quick look”. It is forbidden and it is unsafe, after half a century of neglect.

Don’t take anything home

Not a tile, not a sign, not a pebble. Leave things where they lie. Your own rubbish, on the other hand, leaves with you.

Don’t fly a drone

Drones are banned. Forget the aerial shot and leave the drone behind.

Don’t photograph soldiers or posts

Before you press the shutter, check the frame. Soldiers, military posts and UN posts stay out of it. Not sure? Don’t shoot.

Don’t cross the barrier

The perfect picture always seems to be just past the fence. It isn’t. Stay on your side.

Don’t turn up at the last minute

Handing back the bike and getting to the gate takes time. Give yourself a few hours, not the final half hour before closing.

Neither do nor don’t: the grey areas

Some questions don’t sit neatly on either side. The ones we hear most:

• Can I walk it? Yes, but in summer it is hard going. Fit and a cool day: walk. Otherwise: wheels.
• Is Palm Beach inside? No. Palm Beach is just outside, beside the fence, a separate beach.
• Can I come over from the south for the day? You can; read our border crossing guide first.
• What else fits into the same day? The walled city of Famagusta or the ruins of Salamis, easily. For more of the coast, there is our beach guide.
• And after? KARTAL is a tavla and PlayStation café in Famagusta. A game of backgammon is a fine way to end the day.